April 8, 2017
Here’s one of our favourite destinations for an early spring day trip
Matsqui Trail Regional Park lies 40 kilometres east of Vancouver.
To get there, take Highway 1 to Abbotsford, then Highway 11 north toward Mission. Watch for the green Metro Vancouver Parks signs that point the way to the park, the main entrance for which lies beneath the south end of the Mission Bridge on Riverside Road. For information, visit http://www.metrovancouver.org/services/parks_lscr/regionalparks/Pages/MatsquiTrail.aspx
Have you ever stopped and shivered just because you were looking at a river?
The Fraser River makes that kind of impression on people such as Doug Petersen, park-operations supervisor of Matsqui Trail Regional Park in Abbotsford.
On the phone from Metro Vancouver Parks’ East Area office, Petersen explained that exploring the Fraser between Yale and Fort Langley has been one of his paddling passions.
“Do it in bite-sized pieces,” he counselled, “probably spread over three days, with stops in Hope, Agassiz, and Brae Island. It’s not for novice flat-water paddlers. The river has strong eddy lines that can easily catch up a canoe.”
The thought of being caught in the grasp of a river as mighty as the Fraser is enough to make anyone’s adrenal glands flutter.
Conversely, walking, wheeling, or horseback-riding beside the river as the spring season freshens is enough to arouse shivers of delight in the dourest of souls.
Spring has a way of doing that, especially when you detect its scent on the wind where the Fraser Valley begins to widen and flatten around Abbotsford.
This month, breezes bear a decidedly floral fragrance as they waft down from the daffodil fields surrounding nearby Bradner, a welcome counterpoint to the odours from local farmyards.
European settlers on both sides of the Fraser used to tremble when the river began to rise.
High-water markers at the Dyke Crest Gauge mounted beside Matsqui’s main trailhead illustrate the heights that flood waters reached over the past two centuries, including the record eight-metre mark in 1894, as well as lesser inundations in 1948 and 1972, and, most recently, in 1999, all of which prompted refortification of the dike system.
As you explore the main trail, look down to see evidence of modest, earlier levee-building endeavours that predate the existing barricade.
When queried about an extension to the riverside trail below the dike, Petersen explained that Metro Parks had acquired more access to the Fraser, thanks to a land purchase.
A one-kilometre trail now links with the main route to form a loop.
In particular, parents of young children will appreciate the improved path, as it provides easy access to sandy stretches of the riverbank, where kids can toddle or practise their casting.
Cyclists will also enjoy the riverside stretch, especially on breezy days when the dike trail acts as a windbreak.
Matsqui Trail appears deceptively short, but there’s more here than meets the eye.
Decide at the outset how much of its 14-kilometre length you’re game to tackle.
The park’s main jumping-off point beside the Mission Bridge lies midway between the Fraser Valley Regional District’s Sumas Mountain Park to the east and the City of Abbotsford’s Douglas Taylor Park on the western perimeter.
There are advantages to exploring in either direction.
Petersen’s favourite portion is a 4.5-kilometre wilderness corridor that leads west from rolling farmland through Matsqui First Nation territory into a forested setting above the river before dropping down into a marshy area bisected by a small creek.
“This is a spectacular transition with a little bit of everything,” he enthused, “created during an expansion done in 2000. Do this section on one visit; next time, head east to Page Road at the foot of Sumas Mountain. As a benefit to runners, we put up kilometre markers along the way.”
Petersen has witnessed sturgeon breach a metre above water offshore of the trail’s eastern extremity, where the Fraser bends around Strawberry Island and a sense of wild, natural rhythms governs the landscape.
“Depending on the time of year, there are snow geese in the fields and eagles in the cottonwoods. There are lots of First Nations connections along this stretch for traditional fishing rights as well.”
A plaque affixed to Matsqui Trail’s info board acknowledges the influence of the Fraser Basin Council on shaping the park’s current identity.
Bob Purdy, external relations and corporate development director with the Vancouver-based council, pointed to a report his group published in 2000 that detailed how park planners, Matsqui First Nation members, and a myriad of local citizens’ groups began the process of creating a greenway beside the Fraser from Sumas Mountain to Fort Langley.
“Valley bottoms are where 85 percent of species live,” Purdy said. “You build environmental resiliency by creating connections. You minimize fragmentation by maximizing the ‘connectiveness’ of green fragments. When climate change hits, these corridors will be critical for survival.”
Many people who visit here are cycling the Trans Canada Trail, of which Matsqui Trail is a well-forged, spirit-shivering link, indeed.
Text CR Jack Christie
Photo CR Louise Christie
March 1, 2017
Nothing says “March” like the advent of spring school break.
When you’re looking to free yourself from winter’s bonds, there’s no need to venture far from home in Metro Vancouver.
Vernal greenery and good times are on welcome display at every turn.
With those rewards foremost in mind, here are a quartet of day trip tips for spring-break outings chosen from our all-ages, all-activities, all-seasons guide 52 Best Day Trips from Vancouver.
First up: South Surrey’s Redwood Park, replete with some of the best natural hide-and-seek stashes around.
A grove of towering coast redwoods dominates the ridge above historic North Bluff Road, or 16th Avenue, in the Hazelmere Valley.
A century old, the park’s anchor tenants, members of the world’s tallest tree species, still have a ways to go before they match their record-holding cousins in Northern California, the tallest of which top out at more than 100 metres.
The redwoods’ drooping skirts encircle them and brush against each other like a troupe of Sufi dancers.
As French writer Colette observed, children only value that which can be hidden. In this evergreen realm, secret alcoves abound.
And not just on the ground.
Look up and you’ll spy a bachelor pad–sized tree house, a replica of the one inhabited for decades by the park’s former owners, brothers David and Peter Brown.
During their lifetimes, the twins planted redwoods, plus 32 additional species, on their property.
When the City of Surrey turned the Browns’ arboretum into parkland, efforts were made to attract families, including expanding a kids’ playground.
That’s where we met Abbotsford photographer Jeff Andrews with four of his 10 children. “Since my wife, Gisela, gave birth to triplets,” he said, “we take things day to day on spring break.”
If you live on an island ringed with dikes, it’s easy to be lured onto a bike and to simply start rolling along.
Next up: Richmond’s portion of Lulu Island boasts a sinuous 47.5-kilometre network of sea-level pathways.
Some stretches touch historic landmarks, such as London Farm in Steveston, where the first Europeans began the dike-building effort.
Other sections, like Middle Arm Trail, pass beside Richmond’s Olympic speed-skating oval, with its massive exterior panelling designed by Musqueam artist Susan Point.
Accenting a bike ride here are numerous other public-art installations inspired by the Fraser River’s proximity.
Watch for a waterfall through which a metallic school of salmon swims.
The best place to stage a visit is Richmond River Park beside the No. 2 Road Bridge, or one of the numerous pullouts along River Road between the Moray Bridge and Terra Nova Park.
Thirdly,Rocky Point Park.
Should your day trip more closely resemble a class outing in size, follow the breeze to Port Moody’s Rocky Point Park.
Without doubt, this multi-activity playground will satisfy the fussiest of little rippers.
Budget an hour or more to cycle, stroll, in-line–skate, skateboard—whatever—around the eastern corner of Vancouver’s inner harbour.
Along the way, poke your head in at the Noons Creek Hatchery to see how the salmon fry are fattening up prior to their release.
Just uphill from the hatchery lies a mellow-flowing skateboard park, always worth a look in, as are the twin PoMo Rotary Bike Trials and Sk8 parks at Rocky Point’s downtown entrance on Murray Street.
Seek out Pajo’s fish-and-chips stand inside the park. Grab some hot fries, strike out for the end of the long pier that out into Port Moody Arm, and let spring breezes freshen your worldview.
Finally, if you go out in the woods today, you’re in for a big surprise, or at least a little magic.
If you go out in Pacific Spirit Regional Park on Saturday night, March 25, be prepared for something even bigger.
What started as a Boy Scouts night hike has morphed into something called Night Quest.
These days, Metro Vancouver Parks invites spring breakers to experience the heavily wooded forest on Vancouver’s West Side for themselves.
In the safety of hundreds of fellow questers, of course.
Night Quest began when park volunteer and Scout leader Ed O’Brian came up with the idea of observing the changes that happen in the forest as sundown blends into twilight and night eventually envelops all.
Each year, O’Brian dons a glittering, leafy-green robe as he becomes the embodiment of Pacific Spirit Park itself.
From the park’s 16th Avenue entrance just west of Blanca, Night Questers follow a two-kilometre, lantern-lit trail.
Musicians line the route as shadowy forms and glistening eyes peer out on all sides.
The heady scent of cedars blended with the rich loamy aroma of the forest floor lends an air of calm that you could never anticipate.
Fleece up to avoid getting chilled.
Gather around a campfire for entertainment as drumming fills the night.
Bring flashlights or lanterns, and allow at least one hour to complete the quest.
As the Boy Scouts say, be prepared—and come early.
One of the best things about Night Quest is that it’s free, and you don’t need to register.
Just show up.
And remember to duck out of the way of the flying squirrels, of course.
Details on regional park spring-break events can be found on Metro Vancouver’s Web site.
Text CR Jack Christie
Photo CR Louise Christie
January 3, 2017
Photo CR Louise Christie
Imagine discovering a dream you never knew you had.
That’s how Ken Achenbach describes owning a backcountry snowcat operation near Whistler.
A pioneer at heart, Achenbach—who helped invent the twin-tip snowboard, which revolutionized the fledgling sport in the mid 1980s—bought into Powder Mountain Catskiing and Catboarding over ten years ago and took centre stage with the company in 2008.
Not that running a business in Whistler is anything new to the forward-thinking entrepreneur, who opened the resort’s first snowboard shop in 1988 and still runs the original snowboard summer camp, the Camp of Champs, on Blackcomb Glacier.
On the phone from Powder Mountain’s day lodge, Achenbach said that the opportunity to run a snowcat business was too good to resist.
“How can you say no to an area 15 minutes from your home that gets twice as much snow as Whistler Blackcomb?”
In fact, on Achenbach’s location on the ideal slopes of five adjacent peaks—including Tricouni Peak, Mount Brew, and Cypress Peak—storms blasting in off the Pacific drop significantly more precipitation than further inland.
Moving through that much white stuff requires legs of steel or a whole lot of horsepower.
Winter travel has spawned innovations from dogsleds to snowmobiles, and nowhere more than in the True North.
It started in the 1940s with Joseph-Armand Bombardier’s first B12s; Allan Drury took things further in 1975 when he brought Caterpillars to the Selkirk Wilderness Skiing lodge in the West Kootenays, the world’s first snowcat-skiing operation.
Drury’s larger-than-life persona is reflected in the passion Achenbach and his operations partner, snowboard maestro Don Schwartz, have brought to their venture.
It didn’t take long for the partners to spread the powder stoke among old friends, such as Jake Burton and Tony Hawk.
In January, 2008, with an elite international roster of snowboarders, skateboarders, and surfers, Burton and Hawk met up to shoot backcountry scenes with Powder Mountain for the action-sports feature film, Life as a Movie, directed by Taylor Steele.
As Achenbach explained, “Taylor changed the face of surf movies. His idea this time was to gather top riders from the three different board worlds and shoot them experiencing life from the other side of the mirror. I had big-wave surfers from Hawaii trying to manage armpit-deep powder asking me, ‘How do you ride this?’ ”
One of the charms of exploring the backcountry by snowcat rather than helicopter is the sense of camaraderie fostered by riding with a dozen other powder hounds in a heated cab mounted atop a PistenBully snow groomer.
The experience is less like the aerial assault of a mountain and more like catching your breath on a chair lift with friends while comparing notes on the previous run.
Just over the Pemberton Icefield north of Whistler lies the Hurley Pass, far enough inland for the powder snow that falls there on the South Chilcotin peaks to be freeze-dried by arctic outflow winds.
Those gusts may rattle a few windows of Backcountry Snowcats’ 10-person lodge at the top of the pass.
Still, that’s a small price to pay for the powder that mounds up in deep drifts and the clear skies that invariably follow winter storm systems.
Half of the fun of getting to the lodge is the snowmobile ride from owners Reg and Kathy Milne’s base in Pemberton Meadows.
Reg cut his teeth grooming snowmobile trails, servicing microwave transmitter towers, and coordinating snowcat operations for film crews.
The Milnes started their business in 2006 after working for almost two decades on obtaining a backcountry tenure permit from the provincial government.
“There were many years when we thought it would never come,” Reg said when reached by phone in Pemberton. “But we knew that with the rising demand in the marketplace for untracked powder terrain we’d succeed, especially with snowboarders who are looking for a surf experience.”
Snowcats offer a mid-range option for backcountry exploration, positioned between lift-serviced resorts and pricier helicopter adventures.
A typical snowcat day is $450, whether you head off on a day trip with Powder Mountain (1-877-793-73491-877-793-7349; powdermountaincatskiing.com/ ) or overnight with Backcountry Snowcats (1-604-932-21661-604-932-2166 or 1-888-246-11111-888-246-1111; snowcats.ca/ ).
Some of the best conditions of the season occur between now and the end of April.
For a comprehensive listing of snowcat and helicopter ski and snowboard companies in B.C., visit www.helicatcanada.com/
December 1, 2016
ACCESS: The VanDusen Botanical Garden’s Festival of Lights runs from December 1 to January 2 and is open daily except December 25 from 4:30 to 9 p.m. The Butchart Gardens are located in Brentwood Bay, 23 kilometres north of Victoria and 20 kilometres south of B.C. Ferries’ Swartz Bay terminal. The Magic of Christmas runs through January 6. More information on Butchart Gardens is included in our travel guide Best Weekend Getaways from Vancouver.
The calendar may be divided into four seasons, but as most celebrants know, Christmas is a fifth season all its own—a time of inner reflection that basks in the uplifting prospect of renewal.
Although nature may be throttling back on growth for the next few months, at least the sun begins to strengthen and days lengthen in response.
As a way of celebrating the winter solstice, former VanDusen Botanical Garden director Harry Jongerden gloried in the annual Festival of Lights mounted by his staff.
“People look at me quizzically when I say lighting up plants is a good way to enhance nature,” he told us. “Yet this is the time of year when plants tend to get ignored. To decorate them with lights is to be reminded of their abiding presence.”
After an eight-year stint as head gardener at the Stratford Festival in Ontario earlier in his career, Jongerden admitted he has a background of sorts in show business.
Yet VanDusen was his first experience with light shows.
“I arrived to discover this is a big event that brings in sufficient revenue to support the garden year-round.”
Jongerden pointed out that Stanley Park’s yearly Bright Nights event is put on by members of the B.C. Professional Fire Fighters Association Burn Fund, and VanDusen’s festival is the only such civic affair entirely staged by Vancouver park board employees.
“It gives staff the chance to display the artistic talent of gardeners while at the same time heightening the garden’s reputation with the public.”
As much as the Festival of Lights appeals primarily to families, Jongerden observed that the month-long gala is just as much a couples’ activity.
“It’s a date night. I saw an awful lot of visitors strolling hand in hand.”
With the wintry romance of Christmas in the air, VanDusen’s team of garden elves lobbied Jongerden to add more variety to the festival’s Dancing Lights musical presentation.
To that end, tunes with “a jazzy, dreamy feel” now accompany one of the twice-hourly performances of choreographed lights centred on Livingstone Lake.
And such lights!
The saturation of colours is an enchanting display that not only enrobes bushes and tree branches but also fires up drifts of ornamental glass tulips that glow defiantly with the prospect of spring.
The cumulative effect is magical enough to cleanse even the most die-hard skeptic of humbug.
Once the high-octane advent of Christmas crescendoes, take time to bask in the afterglow.
Tradition prescribes a well-earned break.
In the Middle Ages, the 12 days of Christmastide were ones of continuous feasting and merrymaking.
Much like VanDusen, Victoria’s Butchart Gardens do their best to sustain the Yuletide enchantment as long as possible.
Over the past two decades, the privately owned, family-operated garden has mounted the Magic of Christmas, with displays of storybook-themed mannequins throughout much of the 22-hectare property.
The garden’s recently-retired public-relations director, Graham Bell, said that “next to the late-spring-to-early-fall season, the month-long celebration is the second-biggest blip on our radar. The amount of preparation is massive. In June, we start making the bows that we use to dress up the trees. By October, while the gardeners are planting bulbs, we’re stringing lights and suspending the big glass balls at the entrance.”
Given that many of the displays are mounted in the garden’s lakes and ponds, an early start to preparations before ice forms is a must.
When it comes to lights, few displays outperform VanDusen’s intensity.
By the same token, Butchart’s amusing decorations are presented on a scale unmatched elsewhere.
As visitors stroll along pathways that lead through sheltering forests and old quarries similar to those in Vancouver’s Queen Elizabeth Park, larger-than-life tableaux modelled on images from the carol
“The Twelve Days of Christmas” appear.
The more familiar you are with the lyrics, the quicker you’ll pick up on the humour.
For example, three French hens sip espresso in a café.
Farther along, four toucans perched on spreading branches make calls on mobile phones.
You get the picture.
Entirely unexpected are the nine life-size—and lifelike—dancing feminine figurines lifted from the pages of children’s storybooks, such as Cinderella, Little Miss Muffet, and Snow White, who twirl around an outdoor stage mounted beside a towering sequoia grove.
In the midst of the seasonal displays is an equally enthralling menagerie of 30 carved wooden animals mounted on the Rose Carousel.
Watching bears, horses, orcas, and ostriches circle inside the domed Children’s Pavilion is enough to trigger a dizzy spell.
Step outside for some fresh air, where the aromatic scent of cedars further enhances the esprit de Noël.
Yet after making the rounds of the garden, don’t be surprised if you have a nagging sense of having missed something.
Where are the 12 drummers drumming?
As you head home from this land of make-believe, look up.
There stand a dozen toy soldiers beating out a mute tattoo among the stars.
And to all a good night.
Text CR Jack Christie
Photo CR Louise Christie
November 1, 2016
Access: The historic village of Fort Langley lies 56 kilometres east of Vancouver. For information on the town’s adjacent Derby Reach, Brae Island, and Glen Valley regional parks, consult the latest edition of our best-selling guide book 52 Best Day Trips from Vancouver.
Forged in Fort Langley, yet another link in the chain of greenways between Hope and the Pacific Ocean now extends farther west, almost to the Golden Ears Bridge.
Pioneer trailblazing around Fort Langley has been going on for almost two hundred years.
At the current rate, the pattern shows no sign of slowing.
The forward-thinking “landbanks” planning concept of Metro Vancouver Parks comes into its own in the riverfront town’s Derby Reach Regional Park, site of the original fort built in 1827.
You could say it’s part of a “buy now, play later” scheme.
When reached by phone, Wendy Dadalt, east-area manager for MVP, told us that much of the landscape through which the Derby Reach to 208th Street Trans Canada Trail Connection passes was originally forest cleared by settlers for farmland or timber.
“The S & R Sawmill lands were purchased in 1996 by the GVRD and province as part of the Lower Mainland Nature Reserve. We’ve land-banked them since then until opening the extension in July, which we designed as a drive-through farm,” Dadalt said.
Although much of the 2.8-kilometre route, a western extension of the Township of Langley’s existing 11-kilometre Fort-to-Fort Trail, runs through green pastures, a short stretch of two-lane blacktop, Allard Crescent, leads past the home and barns of the Normand family, proprietors of Craigentinney Farm for 93 years.
The road has always cut through the Normands’ front yard.
According to Dadalt, that’s the way the family patriarch wanted it.
“I questioned Fred [Normand] why the road goes where it does on their property,” she recounted. “He said his dad was asked where to put it and he said, ‘Right through.’ ”
These days, more cyclists and hikers pass by than vehicles along this quiet back road.
The accompanying pathway constitutes part of a larger plan to establish a new route for the Trans Canada Trail that MVP undertook with the Township of Langley and Trails B.C. for the Experience the Fraser initiative.
There’s not a lot of wiggle room between the broad Fraser River and commercial cranberry fields on the south side of Allard Crescent.The Fraser forms the watery northern boundary beside which the Fort-to-Fort Trail winds.
To do a quick inspection, park at the trail’s 208th Street entrance just north of Allard and begin exploring from there.
Start or finish a visit by cresting the Golden Ears Bridge, with its elevated overview of the Fraser and the Golden Ears’ captivating alpine display above Maple Ridge: a must-ride experience.
The bridge’s wide spiral ramp, well separated from vehicle traffic, is a place of calm.
As the trail winds east through groves of black cottonwoods and red cedars, then crosses fallow fields, opportunities to approach the Fraser and appreciate its steady rolling pace appear at strategic places.One is Muench Bar, one of a number of such fishing bars dotted along the Fort-to-Fort Trail that offer much-needed public access along a shoreline otherwise laced with log booms.
The bars provide picnic tables and washrooms; the largest, Edgewater Bar, at the eastern end of the new extension, features seasonal drive-in campsites and a generous-sized off-leash exercise enclosure for dogs.
Sculptures highlighting Experience the Fraser themes, such as First Nations and the environment, are installed along the extension (including a life-sized iron profile of a farmer and cattle where signs caution visitors to respect working farms and keep quiet).
For added effect, a heady whiff of fresh manure permeates the air where the trail skirts a milking parlour.
The challenge when exploring the trails around Fort Langley is when to call it quits.
On a sunny fall day, cycling the Fort-to-Fort Trail may not be enough for some cyclists.
In that case, tack on a ride out to Brae Island Regional Park’s Tavistock Point opposite the village, where a loop trail offers an unexpected thrill guaranteed to get your whoop on.
Text CR Jack Christie
Photo CR Louise Christie
October 1, 2016
Here’s a great fall family walk as featured in our guide book “52 Best Day Trips from Vancouver“.
ACCESS: To reach the Delta Nature Reserve, take the River Road exit at the south end of the Alex Fraser Bridge, turn right on Nordel Court, and park beside Planet Ice at the end of the road. Follow a paved pathway east from the south side of the building that leads beneath a highway overpass and beside Davies Creek to the reserve’s entrance, a 10-minute walk.
Most Vancouverites would never guess that they live beside the largest undeveloped urban landmass in North America.
If the North Shore’s Lower Seymour Conservation Reserve springs to mind, guess again.
Burns Bog, apparently, takes the cake, at least according to information posted on the Corporation of Delta’s Web site.
Perhaps that claim should be further qualified with a notation that the bog, like much of the LSCR, is also a relatively inaccessible piece of urban geography.
Since being acquired by a consortium of four government agencies in 2004, principally Metro Vancouver, the 2,042-hectare wilderness—featuring the largest raised peat bog on the west coast of the Americas—has been kept off-limits to visitors.
Metro Vancouver Parks spokesperson Mitch Sokalski, chair of the Burns Bog Ecological Conservancy Area scientific advisory panel, related why. “In 2007, our panel identified the highest priority as raising water levels in the bog. Opening the bog to public tours is our lowest priority and probably won’t happen for at least 15 to 20 years.”
Sokalski’s reasoning irks the likes of Delta South independent MLA Vicki Huntington, said that “Nahanni [Northwest Territories] and Gros Morne [Newfoundland] national parks have boardwalks that run through their bogs. There are a lot more visitors there than here. People need to get to the heart of the bog to appreciate and protect it.”
As one of the most outspoken proponents of preserving the bog from development since the 1990s, the former Delta council member knows whereof she speaks.
Actually, a small portion (60 hectares) of Burns Bog—Delta Nature Reserve, located on the northeastern corner of the bog—is open to the public and well warrants a visit, whether to explore on foot or by bike.
Sarah Howie, urban environmental designer with Delta’s engineering department, has been studying the bog’s forested transition zone, formally known as a lagg, or ecotone.
When I contacted her the doctoral candidate said her research has focused on whether or not the ecotone can be restored.
“One way is looking at other natural bogs in B.C. to compare them with what logging and peat mining have done here. I’m examining the broad landscape—the hydrology, chemistry, and ecology—but not current anthropogenic influences, such as the South Fraser Perimeter Road.”
Although construction of the controversial highway—part of the provincial government’s ambitious Gateway Program intended to link the Delta Container Terminal at Roberts Bank with the new Golden Ears Bridge—is incomplete, its impact on the bog’s delicate hydrology is still squarely on the minds of scientific advisory panel members and visitors to the Delta Nature Reserve alike.
Katie Bianchin, the Burns Bog Conservation Society education development officer, told me that on guided tours she often fields questions about the impact of the new road.
“The bog occupies 40 percent of Delta,” she noted. “A lot of people don’t realize when they cross the Alex Fraser Bridge that the massive green patch they see is Burns Bog.”
Throughout the year, Bianchin introduces school groups—from elementary to university levels and drawn from as far away as the U.K.—to the bog’s unique ecology.
A graduate of UNBC’s environmental-studies program, the outgoing Bianchin said that leading tours fits perfectly with what she likes to do.
“I grew up in Richmond and remember visiting the bog on a field trip in elementary school. Fall is a great time because the wet season is here and, after dry summer months, visiting the reserve becomes a truly boggy experience again. Mushrooms are popping up and there are still plenty of salal berries to taste.”
Remember to bring your rubber boots, she cautioned.
As soon as you enter the reserve at one of four entrances along a 2.8-kilometre network of boardwalks, the landscape immediately transforms.
No comparable environments in Metro Vancouver spring to mind.
A ground cover of evergreen Labrador tea thickly blankets the spongy forest floor, intermingled with salal bushes heavy with fruit.
The boardwalk rarely follows a straight line for long, as it zigzags between stands of stunted pine.
“This is a globally unique ecosystem,” Bianchin observed during the annual shoreline cleanup earlier in September.
“The bog’s size is the reason most people have heard of it, even if they haven’t actually been here. Our tours are highly interactive. We bounce on the moss to make the trees shake, visit old bear and fox dens, stop at a sunken tractor—a big hit with boys—and touch, smell, taste bog plants.”
Come along and get tuned into the ecotone.
Text CR Jack Christie
Photo CR Louise Christie
September 5, 2016
South Langley cyclists stop for a sip or two around Campbell Valley Regional Park
Access: Campbell Valley Regional Park lies 55 kilometres east of Vancouver in South Langley. Follow Highway 1 southeast to the 200th or 232nd Street exit and drive 14.5 kilometres south to the park’s 16th Avenue or 8th Avenue entrance. Or from Highway 99 South, take the 8th Avenue East exit and travel 7.5 kilometres to the south-valley entrance on 200th Street. For details, visit www.metrovancouver.org/services/parks_lscr/regionalparks/Pages/CampbellValley.aspx or call 604-530-4983604-530-4983. The park is wheelchair-accessible.
In the countryside around Vancouver, autumn is all about rich smells: fallen leaves and freshly sprung mushrooms give off earthy aromas; beds of late-blooming marigolds cloud the air with perfume; and trellises of ripe grapes emit telltale sweet notes as clusters cry out to be crushed for jelly or wine.
Want to experience this for yourself?
Head to South Langley with bikes onboard.
Leave your vehicle at Campbell Valley Regional Park and head out for an hour or three’s ride while the sun still warms your face.
Not that cyclists are welcome inside the park.
Far from it: this is horse country.
Trails that network through the heritage farmland close to the Canada–U.S. border are reserved for equestrians and pedestrians.
When the time comes to poke your nose into Campbell Valley, use the bike racks at the north- and south-valley entrances, or simply tuck your bikes away in the woods at any of a dozen approaches around the 550-hectare perimeter. (One is at the vintage Lochiel schoolhouse, where a portrait of George VI still adorns one wall with the words to “God Save the King” written on the blackboard below. To peer inside is to step back in time.)
If you can’t take bikes into the park, why bring them along?
Campbell Valley, more than 20 percent larger than Stanley Park, is contained within a rough rectangle of lightly trafficked back roads.
Stately groves of maples and cottonwoods, vibrantly coloured by the changing seasons, demarcate property lines.
Breezes waft across rolling hills, open meadows, and wetlands.
Although the city may be close at hand, this part of South Langley is as quiet and quaint as countrysides come.
In case you need further inducement to explore these laneways, three wineries dot the route.
Now through November is an ideal time to drop in for a taste of both new and old vintages, either from the bottle or straight off the vine, though you’ll have to hurry to sample fresh grapes.
According to Township 7 Vineyards’ manager, Phil Vallely, this year’s cool spring followed by an unusually hot summer meant that most grape varieties at both the winery’s Langley and Okanagan properties were ready for harvesting earlier than usual.
By the time you park your bike in front of the tasting room, as plenty of cyclists do on sunny weekends, you’ll be hard-pressed to find any plump, purple table grapes left on the trellises originally planted 60 years ago by the former farm owners.
Still, buy a glass of wine, sit out at one of the picnic tables spread among the rows of chardonnay and pinot noir, and toast your good fortune at finding your way here.
Until recently, locals scoffed at the idea of cultivating grapes for anything grander than jelly.
Claude and Inge Violet, whose French winemaking pedigree stretches back to the 17th century, challenged that perception when they founded the Fraser Valley’s first winery in the 1980s.
By the time they retired earlier this decade, Domaine de Chaberton had become one of the largest estate wineries in B.C., with an annual production of more than 40,000 cases.
Inge Violet still supplies some of the winery’s trademark white wine variety—Bacchus—from her nearby property.
With more than 20 years in the food-and-beverage industry, Domaine de Chaberton’s retail manager Margo Klassen finds a trend lately toward white wine as the drink of choice among visitors, whom she characterized as more open-minded and adventuresome than those in previous years.
If that description matches your self-image, here’s a suggestion: save any wine-tasting for the tail end of your ramble.
Hop aboard your bike and start circling the park in a clockwise direction to make the most efficient use of energy as you pedal the contoured hillside.
The landscape rolls gently along with little loss or gain in elevation.
The one exception is a steep notch where North Bluff Road, also called 16th Avenue, plummets into the narrow Campbell Valley.
Be prepared for a short section of pumping no matter which approach you take.
As a reward, one of the best views of this circumnavigation appears from the bridge that spans the Campbell River.
At this brief opening, the spires in Golden Ears Provincial Park dominate the northern skyline.
This is one of South Langley’s most picturesquely forested microclimates, which receives more sun and less rain than anywhere else in the Fraser Valley.
Imagine you’re biking in Europe, particularly beneath a stand of towering Lombardy poplars adjacent to Township 7 Vineyards.
Add vino to heighten the sensation and cap your tour.
Going to the country doesn’t get better than this.
Domaine de Chaberton Estate Winery is located at 1064 216th Street. For information, call 604-530-1736604-530-1736.
Township 7 Vineyards and Winery is located one kilometre west of Domain de Chaberton at 21152 16th Avenue, a short distance from Campbell Valley Park’s north entrance. For information, call 604-532-1766604-532-1766.
August 5, 2016
Tiny Redwood Park in Surrey rates high on the list of undiscovered gems in our best-selling 52 Best Day Trips from Vancouver. Here’s why, including an update on its innovative and universally-accessible children’s playground.
ACCESS: Redwood Park lies 35 kilometres south of Vancouver. Follow Highway 99 south to the King George Highway (Exit 10) in Surrey. Go south on King George to 16th Avenue, east to 176th Street, then north to 20th Avenue and east one block to the park’s main entrance. Alternatively, enter at the trailhead and small parking area on the north side of 16th Avenue just east of 177th Street.
To reserve the tree house, contact the Surrey parks and recreation office, 604-501-5050604-501-5050.
For information on Hazelmere Organics, visit the company’s website or stop by their produce store on the west side of 184th Street just north of 16th Avenue beside Redwood Park.
A palpable peace hangs in the air.
With the summer harvest now in full swing, it’s time to reflect on the natural bounty that surrounds Metro Vancouver.
One such place to experience these offerings lies in South Surrey.
Even long-time residents are still amazed to discover hidden corners of this semirural landscape.
Visitors will heartily agree with a quotation from Robert Louis Stevenson on one of the park’s interpretive markers.
“It’s not so much for its beauty that the forest makes a claim on men’s hearts, as for that subtle something, that quality of air, that emanation from old trees that so wonderfully changes and renews a weary spirit,” declared the Scottish novelist and travel writer.
A century ago, twin brothers David and Peter Brown were given adjacent acreages by their father on the logged hillside above Hazelmere Valley, where they dwelled until 1958.
Over the years, the twins set about reforesting the slopes with 32 species of trees native to North America, Europe, and Asia.
Among the most successful was the giant sequoia, or coast redwood, from which the park takes its name.
Other evergreens, such as incense and blue Atlas cedars, also thrived and attained sizable proportions.
Spreading chestnuts, maples, and elms border the fields cultivated by Hazelmere Organics.
One of Redwood Park’s recent additions has been a play space custom-designed for children with mobility challenges.
Surrey parks department operations manager Tim Neufeld told us that the focus on Redwood Park has been to meet universal access standards.
“We’ve improved the trails with better grades and made accessible picnic shelters; we’re slowly evolving the park into a destination for those with special needs,” he said.
The Browns probably would have approved of the inventive playground as much as the replica of a tree house where they once lived and which Surrey rebuilt in the 1980s for use by school groups, Boy Scouts, and Girl Guides.
The bachelor brothers were driven to build a cabin in the boughs of a Douglas fir after fire destroyed two previous dwellings.
Neufeld said the cabin could see better utilization, and plans are underway to use it to stage interpretive programs highlighting the park’s heritage and arboretum.
Text CR Louise Christie
Photo CR Louise Christie
August 4, 2016
Here’s one of the two new destinations featured in the latest edition of our best-selling “52 Best Day Trips from Vancouver.”
Access: 1,001 Steps Park lies south of Vancouver in Surrey’s Ocean Park neighbourhood. Travel south on Highway 99 to Exit 10, then west toward Crescent Beach on Crescent Road, then follow 128th Street south to Kwomais Point Park, located at its intersection with Marine Drive. Park there and walk north three blocks along 126A Street to 15A Avenue and 1,001 Steps Park’s trailhead. For information on both 1,001 Steps Park and the Christopherson Steps, visit the City of Surrey website.
Just like a palindrome, 1,001 Steps Park offers the same experience whether approached from the top down or the bottom up.
With salmonberry bushes in pink bloom, early spring is the best time to appreciate this Surrey pocket park before leaves curtain the steep hillside.
Right now, there’s nothing hidden about the views that stretch west across Boundary Bay to Point Roberts’s green stronghold, where sandstone cliffs mimic the slopes that fall away below Surrey’s Ocean Park neighbourhood.
The sound of a rhythmic cadence of waves rises through the skinny-limbed alder forest, summoning one foot to follow the other.
When reached by phone at his office, Surrey manager of parks Owen Croy fondly recalled his childhood days exploring the 1,001 Steps on visits to his grandparents’ home.
“In the 1950s, neighbours developed the first set of earthen-and-board steps,” he told me.
“We used to clamber up and down on them, shouting: ‘There’s one thousand and one steps!’ As if we could count that high.”
Croy said that in the 1990s, Surrey built the current staircase as well as a companion set (farther north, toward Crescent Beach) that was once also referred to as “1,001” but is now called the Christopherson Steps.
“Although small in size, we treat Christopherson like a park too, since both approaches get people to the wild part of Boundary Bay, a place that doesn’t actually fall under our jurisdiction but is, in fact, provincial land.”
According to Croy, the stretch of coastline between White Rock and Crescent Beach boasts the sunniest, warmest microclimate in Metro Vancouver.
“A visit to Crescent Beach offers everyone the chance to step back in time to a beach community that doesn’t exist anywhere else in the Lower Mainland.”
Croy also offered these words of advice: “As the foreshore area is considered part of the Pacific Flyway, where millions of birds pass through each year, we ask dog owners to keep their pets on leash so as not to harass the wildlife.”
One glance at the rock-and-boulder-strewn portion of the shoreline around the steps is enough to persuade most owners to look elsewhere for a place to exercise their pets, such as a new stretch of greenway that extends between Surrey’s recently acquired Kwomais Point Park and the top of 1,001 Steps Park.
Another suggestion for both two- and four-footed walkers is the quiet back street that leads several blocks east of Kwomais Point along 13th Avenue.
Watch for another staircase, one that traces an up-and-down, 168-step route along the bluff above Semiahmoo Bay, where a viewing platform offers a lookout across into Washington state.
A harmonious sense of convergence awaits those who follow the freshly surfaced pathway from the bottom of the 1,001 Steps (in truth, there are only 228 treads) to the beach via a small underpass beneath the railway tracks.
Offshore, ocean currents wash through three straits—Haro, Georgia, and Juan de Fuca—and two bays, Boundary and Semiahmoo.
A wealth of marine life calls the intertidal zone home.
Time a visit to coincide with low tide, then gently tip up a smallish stone or two at water’s edge to uncover hidden marvels.
During a visit in early April, I witnessed families whooping with excitement at the discovery of ribbon worms as much as a metre in length, eel-like black pricklebacks, and purple shore crabs.
A more exotic menagerie is hard to imagine.
Be absolutely sure to merely watch—not handle—the creatures, and gingerly replace those few rocks in their original position, as the exposed life depends on them for shelter from the elements and predators.
An added advantage of exploring when tides are low comes into play with extra room to walk around the southern headland, Kwomais Point (a half-hour walk from the steps), where winter storms have all but eroded the shoreline.
Although it may be tempting to climb up from the beach and walk a short distance along the tracks, be warned that both freight and passenger trains roll through unannounced.
Instead, pick your way with downcast eyes on the uneven rocks that abut the railway bed, a challenge that would test the balancing skills of a gymnast. Remember to pause occasionally to look around.
On the Boundary Bay side, a parade of peaks marches from Mount Elphinstone above Gibsons Landing on the Sunshine Coast and blends seamlessly with Black Mountain and Hollyburn Ridge on the North Shore.
Step around the point to the Semiahmoo Bay side for one of the most impressive shoreline panoramas in Cascadia, one that rises from sea level to Mount Baker’s 3,286-metre summit accompanied by a succession of snowcapped North Cascades peaks.
Sweep your gaze southwest to the Olympic Mountains, where Hurricane Ridge presents a glaciated wall, then northwest to the chain of Vancouver Island mountains that leads off toward the distant Comox Glacier.
Wow, to the 10th power.
When it comes to stepping out in this neck of Surrey, it’s strictly a numbers game.
July 1, 2016
Here’s the perfect summer outing, a perennial favourite among destinations detailed in our best-selling guide “52 Best Day Trips from Vancouver”
Access: Chilliwack Lake Provincial Park lies 150 kilometres southeast of Vancouver. Travel east along Highway 1 to the Chilliwack Lake–Cultus Lake exit (number 104), then head southeast on No. 3 Road through the community of Yarrow. Go east along Vedder Mountain Road. Just over the Vedder Bridge, turn south (right) onto Chilliwack Lake Road at a well-marked intersection. Drive 42 kilometres to the park. It’s an easy two-hour drive from Vancouver. Lindeman Lake is 3.4 kilometres return; Greendrop Lake is 10.4 kilometres return. Details are at www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/chilliwack_lk/.
There’s no better time to visit the south Fraser Valley than right now.
Lush fields surround roadside stands stocked with freshly-picked produce.
Just as prized are picnicking and angling sites sprinkled along the Chilliwack River Valley, as well as shaded trails on the slopes above the river’s headwaters in Chilliwack Lake Provincial Park.
While river access comes easily at numerous roadside pullouts, you’ll need to expend more energy to reap the benefits offered by hiking routes such as the popular Lindeman–Greendrop Lakes Trail.
One of the rewards will be an enhanced appetite for those juicy niblets; another prize will be the entrancing sight of sunlight sparkling on the surface of the two lakes towered over by craggy North Cascades peaks.
Beside the trail’s outset, lively Post Creek froths its way down the mountainside from high above, carrying a gentle breeze that helps keep biting insects at bay.
Columns of old-growth Douglas fir line the way.
In less than an hour, you’ll find yourself beside Lindeman, possibly the most beautiful subalpine lake on offer in the Lower Mainland.
Clear green at the shoreline, its chilly waters deepen from a lighter blue to indigo when viewed from the trail.
If you plan to journey on to Greendrop, save a swim here for the return journey.
Picking your way around Lindeman’s north side requires some tricky boulder hopping.
Not only will shoes with good ankle support spare you the misfortune of twisting or wedging a foot in the scree, they’ll also afford you the benefit of improving your balancing skills.
Thankfully, staircases and boardwalks assist hikers around the steepest section of the trail by this lake.
From there, the well-marked trail to Greendrop passes knee-high wild gooseberry bushes and delicate mountain orchids as it wends through a narrow forested valley interspersed with open sections of scree.
With the exception of the occasional whirring hummingbird, the air is thick with a rich stillness rarely experienced in everyday life.
Orange metal markers affixed to tree trunks helpfully guide the way.
While Lindeman Lake has a lock on looks, Greendrop’s special feature is the spectacular size of the western red cedar grove that surmounts its waterfront.
Although a trail marker beside Greendrop’s wilderness campsite indicates that the Centennial Trail leads east from there into the Skagit Valley, attempts to find the faded route will prove futile for all but the hardiest of bushwhackers.
Chew on that as you dig into some fresh corn.
Text CR Jack Christie
Photo CR Louise Christie